Climbing Routes in the Ötztal
Reinhard Schiestl via ferrata (Across Burgsteiner Wand rock face)
Type of via ferrata
The Reinhard Schiestl Via Ferrata is somewhat more difficult than the via ferrata at the Lehner Waterfall – some hard physical work awaits you! The trail leads up an almost vertical granite face (200 m) and is secured all along by a wire rope, clamps and rungs. At the exit amid the pasturelands of Burgstein (several snack stations) you enjoy a fantastic view of the Stubai and Ötztal Alps.
Difficulty & equipment
A steep, slightly overhanging, grade-C/D wall at the access, then grade-B/C throughout with some steep rock, past a grade-B traverse, and a grade-D scarp at the end. Three resting areas for resting and regaining ones powers.
Complete climbing equipment required: helmet, climbing harness and via ferrata set, gloves, appropriate shoes, hiking poles for the descent down to the valley.
Trail length and time required
200 m of altitude gain and 300 m of rope length. 1.5 – 2 hours, incl. return approx. 2.5 – 3 hours
Descent
Signposted descent trail to Längenfeld, then continue in the direction of Asthlehn. Walking time approx. 45 minutes. You can also get to the village of Burgstein by car.
Getting there & access
Follow Ötztal's federal road past Längenfeld in the direction of Sölden. At km 24.6 you turn right into the hamlet of Astlehn where you can leave the car at the roadside. Then you cross the federal road, keeping to the left towards the rock face. You reach the access point within 5 minutes.
Lehner Wasserfall via ferrata
Type of via ferrata
It is not as difficult as the Reinhard-Schiestl Via Ferrata, but you still need power and Alpine experience; you also need to be sure-footed. 160 m of altitude gain have to be conquered along the Lehner Waterfall. Many rungs and steps facilitate the ascent. In the middle of the via ferrata you enjoy a fantastic view of the waterfall and the valley. A 30°-overhang is the highlight of this route. If you dare not make this final part you can sidestep it without difficulty to get to the exit at 1,450 m.
Difficulty & equipment
Vertical, grade-C access wall, with easier, intermittent sections; past two short grade-B scarps to the vantage corner; ascending grade-B/D traverse; steeper face to the grade-D overhang (sidestepping possible); across a grade-B ledge and a steep grade-B face at the end.
Complete climbing equipment required: helmet, climbing harness and via ferrata set, gloves, appropriate shoes, hiking poles for the descent down to the valley.
Trail length and time required
160 m of altitude gain and 250 m of rope length. 1.5 - 2 hours, incl. return approx. 2 - 2.5 hours.
Descent
Follow the signs right of the exit and return on the steep trail leading back to Lehn.
Getting there & access
Coming from Umhausen along Ötztal's federal road you reach the hamlet of Au. At km 19.4 you turn right towards Winklen. Follow the road to Unterried. Behind the local heritage museum you also find the car park for climbers. From the car park you reach the access point of the via ferrata within 15 minutes.
Klettersteig Stuibenfall via ferrata
Type of via ferrata
The via ferrata of Umhausen-Niederthai has a total length of 450 m and requires surefootedness and a good head for heights. The first part leads along the rock face of Niederthai to a small resting area located right below a ledge. After the resting area you keep to the left and follow the 159-meter tall Stuiben Waterfall until you reach the exit. Real dare devils can cross the waterfall on a thin steel rope. The easier route continues on the left side up to the exit area.
Difficulty & equipment
A large part of the route is graded B, only two short overhanging sections are C-graded. Therefore the Stuibenfall Via Ferrata is also ideal for families and beginners. Children over 10 years can take full advantage of countless stepladders if they are secured by an additional rope.
Complete climbing equipment required: helmet, climbing harness and via ferrata set, gloves, appropriate shoes, hiking poles for the descent down to the valley.
Trail length and time required
300 m of altitude gain and 450 m of rope length. Approx. 2 hours, incl. return approx. 3 hours.
Descent
Along the scenic Stuibenfall walking trail, past the panoramic platforms towards Umhausen or further on to Niederthai (follow the signposts).
Getting there & access
From Oetz along Ötztal's federal road in the direction of Umhausen. At km 14.3 you turn left to Umhausen and then right towards Niederthai. Follow the road for about 500 meters. Parking lots are available for a charge at Ötzi Village and the swimming lake.
From the car park you reach the access point, located right next to Stuibenfall, within 20 minutes.
